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#1
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micro pave setting
Hello!
How set stones like that? I found some kind of teaching, but I do not know is possible set small stones like big. One very nice work Thanks! |
#2
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Re: micro pave setting
Hi Liteon,
Do you have any experience in setting stones? Starting with micro pavé setting is like wanting to engrave what Phil Coggan does without ever engraving before. Don't know what your experience is but if you have some goldsmithing or setting skills this, http://www.handengravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=1665 might be an easyer way to get to micro pavé. That is basicly this setting but then next to each other. Still micro pavé is aproached a bit differently especially with airgravers. Still its good to know the basics to what a stone needs to be seated and set right before jumping into the micro work. Looking at these pics might help some too http://www.handengravingforum.com/al...&pictureid=513 and the few that follow. http://www.handengravingforum.com/al...pictureid=1315 and the few that follow. Hope this helps a bit. And I am sure that Sunil might add a lot more wisdom on how he sets his stones. Greetings, Daniel |
#4
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Re: micro pave setting
That is some nice work Liteon!
If a micro pavé setter can find the time to put a tut together you could start straight away |
#5
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Re: micro pave setting
Im not sure where your located but if you need diamond setting classes I could help. Im in chicago area.
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#6
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Re: micro pave setting
Something of a necropost, but I thought it better to keep the relevant stuff together.
I've just started practicing setting some 1mm CZs girdle to girdle (a pretty standard 3-2-1 triangle in copper) and it has raised some interesting questions. Well, interesting to me anyway... I'm precutting everything, trying to make all the beads the same size and getting the bright cutting done in advance, but I'm slightly puzzled by how to proceed: When I've done larger stuff, where there are 3 stones in a triangle I've raised beads from the centre "island" towards the stones with a small half-round; I'm not sure that this will work in this situation - the metal remaining is quite small and I've nothing small enough to use to do so (even the dead burr ground to a round graver is massive by camparison). Unless I should use an onglette to split the metal and move it over the stone? Where the metal needs to be split to form beads over 2 stones, I've started holding a flat graver upside down so I can see & position the cutting edge exactly. Finally, is there any point using setting burrs (413) in this application, or would I be better off using round burrs to cut the seats? Every burr change costs time, after all. Thanks for any suggestions!
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Peter |
#7
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Re: micro pave setting
Well I'm probably a real ahck setting pave But I was taught to do most bead setting using a ball bur. Also I personally cur my seat so that stone is deeper up to the table surface, that way the island you want to cut your prongs from is tall enough to use a beading tool and spred it down and outward making the one bead cover all three stones. What can I say, no awards for me but the job got done...chickenscratcher
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#8
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Re: micro pave setting
Hi Liteon,
Cant see anything at above I get this message ; http://www.tdl.ee/~andres16/kett4 Not Found The requested URL /~andres16/kett4 was not found on this server. Apache/2.0.52 (FreeBSD) PHP/4.3.10 Server at www.tdl.ee Port 80 SE
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Learn from those who know more than you do and teach those who know less than you do. - I.M. |
#9
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Re: micro pave setting
First sorry for the spell erros in my 1st. post. Always re read your work right. But I can't bring up pictures of your work , wish I could see. The point I'd like to make here is, If it is at all possible I drill a hole all the way through unless it would ruin the beauty of the piece. No mater how small the stone if you can't clean it later it will look very bad when it gets dirty. You can not keep dirt from behind the stones, and I've seen tiny stone disappear because they are dirty. Plus by drilling a hole about 2/3 to 3/4 the stone size the ball bur makes a good bearing seat for the stone, also the seat cuts faster and the burs don't over heat as fast.......chickenscratcher
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#10
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Re: micro pave setting
One problem of drilling all the way through so many holes close together is that it makes the item abit on the weak side.
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#11
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Re: micro pave setting
Thanks Chris - that makes perfect sense. When I did the eternity ring as the end-of-course piece, it was surprising how little metal was left. However, it is being worn daily and so far none of the stones have come loose despite it being silver.
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Peter |
#12
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Re: micro pave setting
I guess it all depends on the wearer & their lifestyle, micro pave rings won`t last five minutes with some ladies or was that laddies.
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#13
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Re: micro pave setting
The wearer has been made aware that there will be words if she wears it around the horses
In the meantime, she's doing a sterling (sorry!) advertising job for me.
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Peter |
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