Lindsay AirGraver® Mini Stone Holder Review

[tsterling]

Here’s a quick report on the new AirGraver® Mini Stone Holder available from Steve Lindsay.


As I’ve come to expect from Lindsay products, it was beautifully machined and knurled, very convenient to use. I mike’d the diameter of the end tube that fits into the airgraver, and at 0.130 inches is just a hair larger than 1/8 inch in diameter. This gave it a nice, tight fit in my Nitro G20. The holder fits several different sizes of the ceramic superstones, and the holder is hollow all the way through so it can accommodate the entire length of the stones.

Lindsay recommends 6,000 to 10,000 strokes per minute and the standard or light pistons, but I just loaded it into my Nitro G20 (tungsten piston) since that’s the handpiece I use for sculpting/stippling and similar operations, because it is foot controlled and I can hold it like a pencil - easier on my hand.

I thought up a simple test to put it through its paces, and gave it a go. I have to say I was very impressed. I chucked up a 180 grit, 0.5 mm x 0.5 mm ceramic superstone and this puppy ate through mild steel without a pause or falter. Within a minute, I could see a definite depression, and feel it with my finger as well. My initial attempt to create a rectangular spot worked fairly well, but didn't give me the sharp edges I was hoping for, so I designed a more realistic test for an engraved item. I engraved four rectangles on a 1018 mild steel plate, and tested each of the four grits of stones I have - 180, 300, 600 and 1200. Each rectangle is about 1 x 0.5 inches, and took longer to engrave than completely stone each interior. I was able to completely fill the interior, without ever going past the engraved outlines. The device allows excellent control while easily cutting the metal far better than I could with similar stones in a pencil hand holder.


Above, you can see two photos of the test piece. The angled sort-of-rectangular spot on the right hand side is my first attempt with the 180 grit stone. The other rectangles are labeled with the grit of the stone used. Only in the small rectangles on the left did I use the stones like they should be used by starting with the coarsest grit followed by successive grits at 90 degrees to the previous scratches - I've labeled the successive grits on the left. Even the 1200-only grit rectangle on the far right did a good job of erasing most of the surface manufacturing defects of the steel (you can see the original steel surface outside the rectangles - I didn’t do much in the way of surface prep beyond Scotchbrite to shine away a little rust).

A few tips:

1. I had a piece of 300 grit superstone tip break off during use, and a small section peel up from the tip when I continued to use it. I think this was caused by a manufacturing flaw in the ceramic. But, it brought to mind a strategy to use these to best effect without damaging the stone. When using the holder, I held it at about a 45 degree angle to the surface of the metal, and as you might imagine, the stone wore away at the tip at that angle. I suggest when the wear starts to approach the top surface of the stone, to turn the stone over 180 degrees (top stone surface becomes bottom surface). In other words, don’t allow a sharp edge to occur on the top of the stone where the ceramic fibers might peel away. Turn it over before that happens and eliminate the possibility of the top ceramic fibers of the stone peeling away.

2. I was a little concerned about the stones eventually wearing away the interior of the split collet, so I would suggest opening it up so the stones slide in and out with little contact to the collet, then tighten down the collar.

3. When trying to stay within the confines of engraved lines, it’s much easier to see what’s happening in front of the stone. What’s happening behind the stone is more difficult to control, so when stoning an area start a little ways inside the area and proceed forward, then turn the engraving around and approach the original start area from the other direction.

Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with, nor compensation from Lindsay Engraving, other than loving their products.

Final judgement: An excellent piece of equipment, fast cutting, very controllable, easy to use. It’s going to see a lot of use in my studio. I like it so well that I got one and a selection of stones for my daughter for Christmas - shh, don’t tell her. I tell my students that everything in the engraving world is priced in hundreds, so at $49 this is a real bargain!

Best of Luck!

Tom

[scottyd]

Tom,
Thanks for the detailed review. I have been trying to resist buying one of these holders but I think you have pushed me over the edge.
Scott

[tsterling]

Scott, Christmas is coming! Somebody in your house needs a present...and these work really well.

Tom

[SEngraver]

Originally Posted by tsterling

Here’s a quick report on the new AirGraver® Mini Stone Holder available from Steve Lindsay.


As I’ve come to expect from Lindsay products, it was beautifully machined and knurled, very convenient to use. I mike’d the diameter of the end tube that fits into the airgraver, and at 0.130 inches is just a hair larger than 1/8 inch in diameter. This gave it a nice, tight fit in my Nitro G20. The holder fits several different sizes of the ceramic superstones, and the holder is hollow all the way through so it can accommodate the entire length of the stones.

Lindsay recommends 6,000 to 10,000 strokes per minute and the standard or light pistons, but I just loaded it into my Nitro G20 (tungsten piston) since that’s the handpiece I use for sculpting/stippling and similar operations, because it is foot controlled and I can hold it like a pencil - easier on my hand.

I thought up a simple test to put it through its paces, and gave it a go. I have to say I was very impressed. I chucked up a 180 grit, 0.5 mm x 0.5 mm ceramic superstone and this puppy ate through mild steel without a pause or falter. Within a minute, I could see a definite depression, and feel it with my finger as well. My initial attempt to create a rectangular spot worked fairly well, but didn't give me the sharp edges I was hoping for, so I designed a more realistic test for an engraved item. I engraved four rectangles on a 1018 mild steel plate, and tested each of the four grits of stones I have - 180, 300, 600 and 1200. Each rectangle is about 1 x 0.5 inches, and took longer to engrave than completely stone each interior. I was able to completely fill the interior, without ever going past the engraved outlines. The device allows excellent control while easily cutting the metal far better than I could with similar stones in a pencil hand holder.


Above, you can see two photos of the test piece. The angled sort-of-rectangular spot on the right hand side is my first attempt with the 180 grit stone. The other rectangles are labeled with the grit of the stone used. Only in the small rectangles on the left did I use the stones like they should be used by starting with the coarsest grit followed by successive grits at 90 degrees to the previous scratches - I've labeled the successive grits on the left. Even the 1200-only grit rectangle on the far right did a good job of erasing most of the surface manufacturing defects of the steel (you can see the original steel surface outside the rectangles - I didn’t do much in the way of surface prep beyond Scotchbrite to shine away a little rust).

A few tips:

1. I had a piece of 300 grit superstone tip break off during use, and a small section peel up from the tip when I continued to use it. I think this was caused by a manufacturing flaw in the ceramic. But, it brought to mind a strategy to use these to best effect without damaging the stone. When using the holder, I held it at about a 45 degree angle to the surface of the metal, and as you might imagine, the stone wore away at the tip at that angle. I suggest when the wear starts to approach the top surface of the stone, to turn the stone over 180 degrees (top stone surface becomes bottom surface). In other words, don’t allow a sharp edge to occur on the top of the stone where the ceramic fibers might peel away. Turn it over before that happens and eliminate the possibility of the top ceramic fibers of the stone peeling away.

2. I was a little concerned about the stones eventually wearing away the interior of the split collet, so I would suggest opening it up so the stones slide in and out with little contact to the collet, then tighten down the collar.

3. When trying to stay within the confines of engraved lines, it’s much easier to see what’s happening in front of the stone. What’s happening behind the stone is more difficult to control, so when stoning an area start a little ways inside the area and proceed forward, then turn the engraving around and approach the original start area from the other direction.

Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with, nor compensation from Lindsay Engraving, other than loving their products.

Final judgement: An excellent piece of equipment, fast cutting, very controllable, easy to use. It’s going to see a lot of use in my studio. I like it so well that I got one and a selection of stones for my daughter for Christmas - shh, don’t tell her. I tell my students that everything in the engraving world is priced in hundreds, so at $49 this is a real bargain!

Best of Luck!

Tom

Hi
Tom you done a wonderful review here,thank you for that.I got a mini stone holder a fortnight ago.and I am in total agreement with you though I use it in a classic.
Once again an excellent tool there Steve L,my compliments to you.
SE

[Steve Lindsay]

Hi Tom, Thank you for making and posting this review. The example plate should be super useful for people to see!

[tsterling]

You're welcome, Steve! Thanks for providing these great little holders.

Tom

[dechristo]

Hey Tom...here's a tip...in the event a ceramic stone ever splinters or splits, save those little pieces. The stone holder can hold the tiniest pieces and these splinters can come in very handle for sanding the smallest areas and tight corners. I have actually deliberately splintered even the small .5mm square stones for micro sanding...just a thought.

[tsterling]

Hi Chris,

Good tip. I thought about sanding the tips smaller with a diamond lap, but I think you've got the best idea...thanks.

Tom

[dave gibson]

I saw an ad for this, I read all the posts. Would someone please explain what this tool is for? I haven't a clue, the photos all look the same.

[Steve Lindsay]

Hi Dave, The stones are for smoothing out a small surface... i.e. in sculpturing to smooth finish a sculptured leaf.

[tonya_davidson]

I was looking at buying the round stones. Has anyone tried those?

[Joe PAonessa]

I use it in a rotary tool to clean up graver marks when coin carving. the different grits leave different textures this way as well.

[tsterling]

Originally Posted by tonya_davidson

I was looking at buying the round stones. Has anyone tried those?

I’m not familiar with the round stones, but if they fit the holder they should work just fine.

[Pancho]

Would this be a good way to clean up solder lines around overlays? I’m getting pretty good about getting the correct amount of solder on but still get the occasional overflow.

[tsterling]

I think I’d try a tiny scraper, followed up by the tiny stone in this holder to smooth over the scraper marks.

Best of luck!

[Pancho]

Thanks tsterling, it’s going on the wishlist