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#1
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Hi Steve, thanks for constructing such an excellent instrument! When I first connected the classic palm control to my silent air compressor I could feel it passively idling in my hand -it reminded me of my Harley! It truly is a one of a kind amazingly constructed and engineered piece of equipment. The tiny engraving that you did on it keeps giving me inspiration.
My question is: When I watch you use the universal patented tip I notice that you slightly angle the graver to the left (even when making straight cuts). Is this the best way to cut with this graver or were you trying to get a different effect? Second question: I understand that maintaining a constant depth of cut is a balance as you said like riding a bike.. so I understand the importance of uniform depth when cutting (unless a specific effect is desired) . However, as a new engraver, I am unsure how deep I should be engraving? My wife used to do some hand-engraving and she commented that my engraving appeared quite “deep”. To elaborate, when you guys are engraving lettering is it just barely scratching the surface? Or should there be an ideal depth of cut I am trying to achieve? If my initial cuts are too shallow, will the piece turn out ok if I go over the cut multiple times to increase the depth? Thanks in advance! Ed |
#2
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#3
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Hi Ed and Axl!
Ed, My straight up I tend to lean a little to the left. Not meaning to, but I know I do. With how deep for like lettering, I'll go whatever is needed to get the width I'm after in that part of the letter. Look at the logo/lettering on the body of the handpiece. That is what the cuts look like. There are several ways to cut lettering. You can do small outlines around it and several cuts to take out the middle. That is light and shallow. Another way is I usually have one light line and then a larger laid/flared-over cut that becomes the middle and other side at a depth needed to get that width.
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__________________________________ Steve Lindsay AirGraver.com EngravingArtist.com |
#4
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Thanks for the info, it helps me a lot. I am a dentist and am using my Loupes for magnification.. I ordered a microscope but until it arrives my loupes give about 3.5x magnification. I think my problem is exactly as you describe that i am trying to emulate deep cuts because i am watching videos that are using very high power magnification. As a result i am getting “choppy” edges along my cuts, even when i decrease the stroke length.
My burr of metal is so large i cannot see the tip of the graver whatsoever i just watch the metal “lift up” to follow where i am cutting! And i know Steve describes paying attention to the graver tip as he is making a cut and i was wondering how he “sees” the tip when it is buried under metal ![]() I have done a lot of woodcarving in the past and am used to removing a lot of material, i need to adjust my perspective and work more at the surface. Thanks again for the guidance! Ed |
#5
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The same thing happened to me, For 11 years I worked in an Artistic workshop, goldsmithing and before I was a cabinetmaker, I have worked carving and forming, embossing in thin and thick metal etc, when I got to engraving the same thing happened to me, I visualized everything in large and I wanted to cut like this. Steve mentioned that we beginners tend to engrave very large, so to think big in engraving, you have to think and cut small hahaha. Engrave small does not mean that it will be faster, in my short experience I see that it can consume the same amount of time, sometimes a little more due to the need to create some tools to access intricate places, I think the only saving would be in material cost. Regarding your cuts, you may be applying too much downward pressure, burs on the edges can be a result of this. At first I also used the index on the graver, then it seemed more comfortable and above all controllable to place the index and thumb on each side of the graver, I can gently slide my thumb or both fingers on the metal to achieve greater stability, you should look the most comfortable and effective way for you, (this was very important in my case). You do not need to apply pressure, let the tool do its work, just guide it, the pressure that is required is only to keep the tip in the cut. When you achieve this you will eliminate the pain in the finger. I imagine you must have already read how much text exists on this site, I have, did you see Steve's instructions on how to hold the handpiece? You are a dentist, so you will have many burs at your fingertips easily to prepare small tools hahaha. The microscope will help you a lot. I hope to see photos of your engravings here soon, slds, keep cutting. |
#6
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Thanks a lot for your help!
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