Basic Equip help

[Ty G]

Just like anyone's first post here, I don't know a danged thing. I understand the Lindsey system; and may be able to have funds for equip and video in a few weeks. The artisan with foot control may be my most economic, yet a quality purchase. (Sorry for this Steve), but the equipment web pages are very uninformative for the rookie. Does the graver come with only one graver point? Is only one used? How many different graver points does one need? And lastly, were are they listed on his equip site?

Also, is there anyone in the NE Texas area (Tyler) who engraves and may entertain a one-time visit?

[NGRAVEIT]

Originally Posted by Ty G.

Just like anyone's first post here, I don't know a danged thing. I understand the Lindsey system; and may be able to have funds for equip and video in a few weeks. The artisan with foot control may be my most economic, yet a quality purchase. (Sorry for this Steve), but the equipment web pages are very uninformative for the rookie. Does the graver come with only one graver point? Is only one used? How many different graver points does one need? And lastly, were are they listed on his equip site?

Also, is there anyone in the NE Texas area (Tyler) who engraves and may entertain a one-time visit?

If I remember correctly " OTTO " is up in Abilene,Tx. and he has the Lindsey System... Check in the wh's who's column...

[SVD]

I'm a different Steve but I think I can answer some of your questions.

Steve includes a free graver with his systems.

You only use one graver at a time, but gravers are kind of like a cross between drill bits and paint brushes. You'll use different ones for different effects but you can only have one 'loaded' at a time.

How many does one need?

Just a few more.

Getting started you really only 'need' one. Steve's Universal 116 (the one he usually sends) is a good one. You can cut lines of various types, do some background removal, do lettering - pretty much anything.

But you know, sometimes you want a line that's narrower but deeper so a 70 would be nice.

And a flat is better for background removal, some types of lettering, and the cuts in Western Bright Cut type cutting.

Round bottom gravers make a particular line type you might want.

Onglettes let you get those really deep narrow lines, as do their 'cousins' knife gravers (similar but slightly different shapes).

If you're doing inlay it helps to have a particular graver for some of the cuts invovled.

Carl Bleile has some gravers for doing deep sculpting.

Phil Coggan and others have had their Bulino points captured in Steve's template system.

It goes on, but it's fun!

[Ty G]

Steve, Thanks so much for that info. That truly helps.