The Internet's Largest and Fastest Growing Engraving Community
Discuss hand engraving using basic to the most advanced methods and equipment
Forum Members: 14,763. Welcome to our newest member, mtan1446
EngravingForum.com -
Domain since Feb 7, 2003
Graver Video Conferencing is empty Join now!
|
ENGRAVING TOOLS - Paypal accepted | Classes | Glossary | Feedback | Tips | Sharpening | Bulino | Videos | Forum Policies |
|
Thread Tools |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
What should I get?
I'm a beginner and I would really love to get into engraving. I'm in the Marines right now so I dont have alot of time to actually practice and maybe even try a school. But this is for future reference more or less. I was thinking about getting a Gravermach with a magnum and monarch handpiece. I was wondering what gravers do you recommend? I'll primarely be engraving firearms and knives. Whats your input?
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Re: What should I get?
Why to do difficult when you can do simple ;-)
Palm control + Co2 http://www.airgraver.com/index1.htm You can take your tools every where and you will have a Rolls of tools ;-) With GRS tools you will must take a suitcase with you to take all :willy_nilly:
__________________
http://rbaptiste.com |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
Hi,
In may opinion there is really only one choice a Airgraver. ether Classic or Artisan. I have done the research and own a Magnagraver or N graver with varipac and changeable collets for metal or wood, but just ordered a Classic. The Magnagraver works great for the Classic hammer and chisel look to very nice steel engraving but it does work on a flex shaft and really shakes up your hand due to the springs and imbalance. Still a great tool to the price. It is much cheaper than almost everything on the market as far as power engravers go that can do steel without a problem. I will keep it without a doubt. The Airgraver ether the classic or the artisan is in my opinion the most advanced tool on the market bar none. With a Palm Control (wish list) or without is surpasses anything on the market. The Classic is about the same price as the gravermax or mach that you mentioned once you add the headpiece (or headpieces) to be able to do what one classic can do without the workspace clutter. Add something that kind of imitates the Palm control and you have even more workspace taken up. Your will rarely find a used airgraver for sale and if so it is gone at close to the original price. (Quite a investment that holds it’s price). It is also has a 3 year warrantee and is a custom hand made tool and Steve Linsay personally makes and supports his products. Since you have time see how many used power engravers are up for sale on the Ebay market. There is a reason people are selling them. I have never seen a airgraver on ebay and Very seldom a magnagraver. All the power engravers (the big 3) (Linsay Airgraver, Magnagraver and Grs) can do gun steel. Spending a decent amount of money I only want to invest in the best tool once. So the answer was simple to me buy the best airgraver you can afford. You get a custom most advanced tool in the world, you will not loose much if any money if you have to sell it, have great support/warrentee and a clean workbench. It doesn't get much better than that (except a real palm control) AirAmp |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Re: What should I get?
Welcome to the forum and the world of engraving...
Your fun has just begun... You have come to the right place... I've not seen any engraver sell their Lindsay system to buy anything else to engrave with but we have sold allot of other systems to buy Lindsay's system... Where are you located??? There maybe someone close enough you can try their Lindsay's Palm Control... Jerry |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Re: What should I get?
First, Thanks for your service!
Now then: I'm one of the ones fortunate enough to have both systems. In my opinion it's hard to go wrong getting either of the air-assisted systems unless you have a special circumstance (which can include one of them just not working for you). In your case I think that the portability of Steve's system is a key factor for you - odds are good that you'll be moving around a lot and may spend some time where space (among other things) is very limited. The fact that Steve's systems don't need electricity is a plus for travel as well. Check out the thread I did on my Box O' Happiness - it's a complete engraving system in a toolbox. I prefer my bench - especially my microscope. I love my microscope! :love: But you know, being able to sit down pretty much anywhere and do some engraving - that's nice! :thumbsup: If you can afford the price difference the PalmControl has major advantages - it's even more portable, you can engrave standing up (I have no touch on the foot pedal standing up), there's one less thing to learn to work (some people have trouble learning the pedal), it's just generally nicer. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
I also have both systems. I use the gravermax when I have a class here but for my personal day to day engraivng I prefer the airgraver with the palm control.
Ray Cover |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Re: What should I get?
Dangerdan,
When it comes to tooling all of the above comments are valid. I started hammer & chisel 32 years ago, got a Magnagraver then a GRS Gravermeister which I used for a long time. I recently got a Lindsay Palm Control and as Roland said it is the Rolls Royce of engraving tools. That said, I must interject that there is much more to engraving guns and knives (especially guns) than the tools used for the cutting of metal. I and others here have repeated the following many times but I will say it again. Knowing what to engrave is as important as how to engrave. All of the nice work you see pictured here and elsewhere started with a design created by the engraver. You can't by a pack of stencils or some such like tattooers sometimes use (and the best, like my brother, still do their own designs). I will say this again, a good design executed by an amature will look better than a poor design engraved by a master. So this means an aspiring engraver must study the art part of the trade and get that down. All you will need is an artists pencil, erasers, paper and a book on scroll design and Ron Smith's is the best. Here is a link to the books: http://www.fega.com/prodserv/BooksSC.asp Scroll design is very important if you hope to do work on guns as that is what people expect to see on guns. There are many variations on scroll but there are some rules as to scroll design that have developed over centuries. When these rules are broken by a novice the work looks amaturish. Good luck on your interest in the craft but be prepared for a long road of development. C. Roger Bleile |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
So here come my two cents worth:
Penny #1;Get an Airgraver from Mr. Lindsey. Doesn't have to the Palm control, though they are awesome. You only need one handpiece and the extra Tungsten piston that comes with it to do what GRS will sell you 3 or 4 handpieces to do. No Box with 3 or 4 controls to fiddle with taking up space, etc. etc. Penny #2; GRS sells a kit with two Ron Smith books and a bunch of his designs on mild steel practice plates and one design on (practice) knife. All for 200 bucks. Worth every penny. Extra Penny; Thanks for your service to the country, stay on this forum and the greatest Hand Engravers in the world will be at your service (these guys and gals are as generous as they are talented) Dave G |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
Buy the Airgraver --- the best hands down tool you can get !! Ken
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
From a former Marine to a present Marine, get the Palmgraver. The cost is about the same as the other stuff, but the quality is better, plus it is totally portable. All you need is an air supply and a few gravers. I started out with H&C, went to Ray Phillips N-Grave-R (still have it), had GRS GravermachSC, and now have the Palmcontrol, which I use exclusively. Save your money and only buy once.
Thank you for serving our country. Bill Moody |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
Thanks guys for th input! I am in Hawaii where my duty station is. I would be doing all my work back home in Texas. Probably wont go home until Christmas so this is something that could go down on the good ole' x-mas list. Not too worried about portability since I wouldnt be taking it from home to here and back etc. I have ordered one of Ron Smith's books on drawing scrolls and I am looking forward for it to get here. I hope I will be able to engrave my Mauser I am building back home and make it look like an expensive peice of art/craftmanship. Which leads me to another question, I would like to try to inlay gold too, and for future purposes, where is the best place to get gold wire and also how much does gold wire usually cost?
BIG-UN: What did you do in the Marines? Thanks |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Re: What should I get?
Oh, you think now that you won't want to bring your gear back with you - wait until you get a chance to try it!
I can give you one tip for gold inlay - start with 'classroom gold' AKA 'copper'. Copper is only a little bit harder than gold (heck, it's softer than some alloys) and a lot cheaper. Biggest drawback is that it work hardens pretty quickly but if you can do a copper inlay you know you can do gold. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
first thing i would do is buy the james b. meeks book, " the art of engraving". it will give you a birds eye view, of, as well as a ton of useful beginning instruction. with a definite aim for practice. drawing, tool sharpening, scroll design, anatomy. lettering, inlay and so on. all that's found in this book will aid you in whatever tool choices you make.
i fully believe all newbies should at least give hammer & chisel and push graving a try. yes, power is the way to go- but there's no such joy to be had as doing a bit of this stuff the old way. for tool sharpening, the lindsay is great and compact. no power required. but tool sharpening should be done i think, with the controlled conditions of a "store bought" system. this assures repeatable, consistent tool geometry. this is perhaps as critical, maybe moreso, for a beginner, than the pros. the pros wont end up with a crummy sharpening job in their hand anyway. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
Hey Dan, I was in Amtracs, first as a mechanic and then as as a platoon Sgt. Got promoted to Cpl in the NCO bar after we had worked three weeks to fix what was not right after the CG inspection. The belly dancer was great...as far as I can remember! Oh well, not doing that stuff any more...found the Light.
Bill |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
0311 here. Its a hard life.
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Re: What should I get?
0311 = hump, hump, hump!
Roger Bleile Former 11 Bravo (Army Infantry) |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
ive used both systems (still do) i just recieved steves "classic" w dual regulators. only difference between classic w dual regulators and palm is foot pedal an price.go for classic and sa-20 compressor.there is no job steves classic and palm cant handle
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
Quote:
|
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
Living in Hawaii , I'm sure you have seen the " Hawaiian Heirloom" style of jewelry. While living there, I was fortunate to have taken a six week long course on this style of engraving. I don't think the fellow is teaching anymore, but I'm sure there are others teaching. This guy lived in Kailua , converted his garage to handle four students. Check out Phillip Rickard in the Royal Hawaiian shopping center. He would know of any classes. He makes some real nice pieces.
I used a gravermax for years before getting a PC. I love it . So much more control. I would go with the PC . |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
okay I am learning the traditional push engraving at school but am looking to buy a fancy system. I was like this " close to buying a Gravermach from GRS, but then I read on the forum about Mr. Lindsay's tools. So now I am leaning towards buying this set "PalmControl™ Classic or NitroG20™ engraving set w/ sharpener"
Now I will be back in the DC area in february to be able to pick up which ever i decide to buy. but my question is what is the difference between using Nitro or the classic..I just assumed everything was run on normal compressors. Where would one buy Nitro (i live in austria)? and how many hours will the Nitro last? If I buy graver blanks from J. Felber (austrian tool company) would I be able to use them in this maschine? Thanks you guys and have a Happy 2011!!! |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Re: What should I get?
Jonessa,If your going to be in Washington D.C.Im in Manassas Virginia just one hour away,welcome to try any of Lindsay's tools.I have all his handpieces.J.J.
|
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Re: What should I get?
...so I did did a little more research and and found all the answers (go figure!)
|
#23
|
||||
|
||||
Re: What should I get?
Hi Jonessa,
The nitro runs on the same air as all other lindsay gravers do. Its just bigger with a larger piston for the heavier work. So you might not get away with using a 30liter/minute airbrush compressor but if you get one that could run a grs system you would be more than okay. All the gravers you can buy and you could grind to fit the insert on the lindsay tools will fit. Good luck! And only now I read your last post, sorry. |
Bookmarks |
|
|